Tsumago – Takayama | thekellytravelblog

Day 15, July 7

We had a light breakfast of toast and vegemite at our Air BNB then off to the bus stop to wait for the bus to Nagiso. A lovely Japanese man came to drop off some recycle cans and newspapers that go to a school and he sat with us until the bus came. He chatted to us in his limited English, he was a bit of a character. We thought he was catching the bus as well but he just waited with us to make sure the bus arrived for us and that we knew how and where to get on! The transport system here is amazing, trains are to the absolute minute – we have not come across one train that hasn’t arrived or left the platform on time. Even the bus arrived at 7.44am. From Nagiso we caught a train to Nagoya then another train to Takayama. We arrived in Takayama about 1.30. Normally here in Japan you cannot check in before check in time (which is usually 3 or 4pm), even if the room is ready! Fortunately the lovely couple that own the Ryokan we are staying in were only too pleased to let us check in early. A Ryokan is a very traditional old Japanese guesthouse. Our tatami (Japanese floor matting) rooms were set up with a low tea table and cushions on the floor. They served us tea on arrival and then whilst we were out the tables and cushions removed to make way for our futons to be laid out, so we came back to freshly made beds. This Ryokan also has private Onsens so you don’t have to bath in the nuddy with everyone else!

Lunch was at one of the few places open after 2pm. Tara and Gerard had udon and soba soupy noodles, I had shaved ice with condensed milk (not the healthiest of lunches) and Tess had nothing. There was nothing vegan as all the broth had fish in it which is often the case over here. Then it was off to a vegan restaurant that Tess found so that she could eat. Home to the Ryokan for a short rest then off to dinner. We went to a lovely husband and wife run restaurant called Heianraku. It was really good. Gerard and I had a sake tasting of 3 different sakes and they really understood what vegan was so Tess was able to have a very delicious meal as well. The restaurant only seats 12 people and is run by a husband and wife, very friendly welcoming people. The wife also gave the girls a bit of an origami lesson after dinner. We met some other Australians there and it turns out the one of them knows someone who went to school with Gerard! The Watts from Balmoral.